Time stopped under the arch.
We climbed up a stream of cobblestones and move into the hollowed town. Clocks
are frozen here, all thoughts of home are left at the base – or at least they
were for four months. Days blurred together and seasons lost meaning. The arch
has no gate or bars to keep time out, but we abandoned it in the grass before
entering.
Now, our last morning in
Orvieto was spent under the arch that separates the town from the narrow road
that leads to the train station. Sleepy eyes strain to watch the last sunrise
we’d see from this hilltop town. Crankiness and sadness overcome what was
originally supposed to be a fun time as we fell asleep last night saying,
“Let’s watch the sunrise before we leave for the airport!” The sun rose but so
did our crankiness, our sadness. What was supposed to be a rejuvenating sunrise
was just a reminder of what we would miss. Laura and I would be on the East
Coast this evening while Sara would return to California. We make our way back
through the arch, climbing up the steep cobblestone road to bring us back to
our half-packed suitcases.
“I want to go to the duomo,” I break the silence with my
demand to see the cathedral one last time.
“Oh…
Megan, I think we wanted to go back to eat breakfast.” They look at each other
and nod. I’m immediately
annoyed at their inability to understand that I wanted to walk through Orvieto
one last time. I didn’t want to go back to the monastery to have my hundred and
tenth bowl of cornflakes. My last glimpse of Orvieto was going to be the duomo, not the dish rack in the
monastery kitchen.
I sigh okay, bye and slowly move onto the side street, the shortcut.
Waiting for them to change their minds, I look back only to see them link arms
and turn up the main road to the monastery. I turn back to the shortcut and
start to run. I have to maximize my time and visually memorize everything in
Orvieto – and I only had about fifteen minutes to do it before we meet for the
airport.
Hurried steps move through
ancient streets and here I am, crying
on foreign cobblestones again. But this time it isn’t because I want to go home,
this time it is because I wanted to stay.
To stay in this place where my biggest problem is whether to get gelato before
or after dinner or both. Where we drink cappuccinos more than we drink water
and where a quick walk can bring us from the monastery courtyard to the outer
cliff of Orvieto, stealing our breath and slowing our pace to watch the trains.
This place where we are so distracted by the ancient architecture and beauty
that we crane our necks and trip on wobbly cobblestones.
I’m almost there. I’m the only sign of life on the deserted
street so I run in the middle, tripping on an occasional loose cobblestone or
two. I look around to see if anyone’s noticed, but of course no one’s here. I
trust that a rogue Fiat won’t zoom out from around the corner to flatten me
against the side of a neighbor’s doorstep. I approach the duomo from the side, still in the shade, and then make my way to
the front. The sunrise light has just reached here. The first light the duomo’s seen today. I linger for a
moment, deciding if I should really make this a thing and stay for a whole five
minutes by myself. But this is the last
time I’ll see the duomo! I need to remember it! I feel alone though,
missing Sara and Laura.
A stray dog breaks the silence with a bark and a growl and
suddenly I’m running again, wondering if this will not only be my last day in
Orvieto but my last day on earth if this dog starts to chase me. My athletic
façade is really just that – a façade and although I’m definitely a flight
(instead of fight) kind of girl, that doesn’t mean my flight is fast enough to
preserve my own life. The dog continues to bark and moves closer for a few
steps, before turning back to a stray pigeon. I’m still sprinting away as if
this is some sort of race to the death. I could see it now, written in
newspapers at home: “study abroad student mauled by small terrier in Italy.”
I run down the main street now, its slight slope downward
causes my sneakers to smack down on the stones and I feel as if I’m falling,
catching myself with every step. I slow in front of the family restaurant where
we eat – where we ate – all of our
meals. I want to remember this too. I stand in front of it for half a second
before realizing that the dog could’ve abandoned it’s pigeon and might still be
after me. I continue my frantic run through the abandoned streets and finally
reach the monastery gate, huffing and puffing, clutching my side. I’m late. My
classmates are dragging their suitcases out of the iron-gated courtyard, asking
where I’ve been and why I’m sweating and why I’m not ready to go right now. 6:30 a.m. – I’m late, I know.
We’ve shared life together and now it’s
time to hug and say goodbye, whispering promises to see each other again
someday. Already looking forward to joyful reunions to make up for painful
goodbyes. Time begins again. Weaving through narrow streets, the escape through
the arch brings us back to time. We’ve packed up our bags, stuffed the study
abroad experience into our suitcases. We’ve done life together – prepared meals,
argued over cleaning schedules, cried with each other for tragedies at home, a
place so far from here. Watches furiously tick as we race down funicular tracks
and onto the crowded bus. Parking lot car horns, trains in arrivo and partenza enter
into the landscape backdrop and then travel on, as we make our way on tracks
that may or may not intersect again.
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